David Tanis
For The New York Times
Warm weather is ours, and picnic season is open for business. But I use the term “picnic” to describe any of several dining variations. It could be a proper outdoor meal on the lawn, at the beach or in a boat. Or a feast on the front stoop. It can even be a picnic indoors if the weather isn’t cooperating. The picnic spirit is casual, convivial, the opposite of formal. The food is simple but mouthwatering.
For this picnic menu, I craved kebabs like those I enjoyed in Istanbul. Kebabs made with ground meat proliferate throughout the Eastern Mediterranean and beyond. Ground lamb is most common, but chicken can be a good choice, too, as it is here. You make a well-seasoned savory mixture and form it into cylinders around a skewer, ready to grill.
If you have them, those traditional flat metal skewers are ideal. But I’ve used bamboo skewers and even wooden disposable chopsticks in a pinch — though you’ll want to soak any wooden skewers in water before using. For that matter, though, it’s also common to have kebabs without skewers, formed into small patties and pan-fried, an easy option.
Made with ground chicken (the dark meat kind, not the breast meat), these kebabs are generously spiced with red pepper, paprika, cumin, sumac and onion. They can be formed well in advance of the meal and refrigerated for several days.
These skewers can easily be roasted on a baking sheet in a hot oven, and I had the best result cooking these kebabs under the broiler. For grilling over coals, I find chicken kebabs need a fine meshed grate or perforated vegetable grill pan. Whatever way you cook them, or whatever their shape, they are fine picnic fare and a great alternative to burgers. You’ll want to serve them with lavash flatbread or pita.
To round out the meal, offer a couple of fresh summery salads. These are visually impressive and beautiful served in big bowls or on platters.
A cucumber salad dressed with tart yogurt and lots of chopped dill and mint makes a cooling, pleasantly refreshing and saucy accompaniment. This is a handy, brightly flavored salad to make all summer long.
Cherry tomatoes make a colorful zesty salad that’s good on its own or very welcome as a picnic side dish. They are halved and tossed with a garlicky vinaigrette, roughly chopped olives, cilantro and parsley and a shower of crumbled feta.
Dessert can be fruit or ice cream, but I suggest delicious shortbread-like cookies made with tahini, sesame seeds and a touch of coconut. Easy to transport and not overly sweet, they make the most divine nibbling for your picnic pleasure.
Oven Chicken Kebabs
Made with ground chicken (or lamb), these Turkish-inspired kebabs are highly spiced with red pepper, paprika, cumin, sumac and onion. They may also be grilled or broiled. Serve with lavash flatbread or pita and some refreshing vegetable salads.
Makes 8 kebabs
INGREDIENTS
2 pounds ground chicken (not breast meat)
1 medium onion, grated or very finely minced
2 tablespoons red-pepper flakes, such as maras
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
1 tablespoon sumac
1 tablespoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), more for serving
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing the kebabs
1/2 cup roughly chopped parsley
DIRECTIONS
1: Place chicken, onion, red-pepper flakes, paprika, cumin, sumac and salt into a bowl. Mix well with wet hands, then add olive oil and mix again to blend. The mixture will be sticky. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.
2: With wet hands, divide into 8 (4-ounce) pieces, then form into long sausage shapes, about 1 inch in diameter.
3: Insert a metal or presoaked bamboo skewer, or a disposable chopstick, lengthwise into each shape, flattening and lengthening the meat against the skewer. The mixture will be soft but will firm up when chilled. Lay on a parchment-lined baking sheet and refrigerate until ready to cook, about 30 minutes.
4: As the skewers refrigerate, heat the oven to 450 degrees. Brush the kebabs generously with olive oil and roast for 15 minutes, or until cooked through and lightly browned. For a bit more color, run them under the broiler for 2 more minutes. (Alternatively, heat the broiler or prepare a medium-hot charcoal grill. If grilling, use a fine meshed grate or perforated vegetable grilling pan. Broil or grill kebabs for about 5 minutes per side, until cooked through and lightly charred.)
5: Transfer to a platter and sprinkle with parsley and a pinch of salt.
Herbed Cucumber-Yogurt Salad
A cucumber salad dressed with tart yogurt and lots of chopped dill and mint makes a cooling, pleasantly refreshing saucy accompaniment to grilled meat. This is a handy brightly flavored salad to make all summer long, and so simple.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
3 cups diced or thinly sliced Persian cucumber
Salt and black pepper
Pinch of ground cayenne
1 tablespoon finely chopped serrano chile (optional)
3 cups plain whole-milk yogurt
1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion
2 small garlic cloves, pounded to a paste or grated
1 small lemon, zested and juiced
1/2 cup roughly chopped dill, plus fronds for garnish
1/2 cup roughly chopped mint, plus leaves for garnish
2 tablespoons olive oil
DIRECTIONS
1: Place cucumbers in a serving bowl and season well with salt and pepper. Add cayenne and serrano chile (if using), and toss.
2: Add yogurt, onion, garlic, lemon zest and juice. Using a spatula, mix everything well. Taste and add more salt as needed.
3: Stir in chopped dill and mint, and refrigerate until ready to use.
4: To serve, garnish with dill fronds and mint leaves, and drizzle with olive oil.
Tomato-Feta Salad
Cherry tomatoes make a colorful zesty salad that’s good on its own or very welcome as a picnic side dish. They are halved and tossed with a garlicky vinaigrette, roughly chopped olives, cilantro and parsley and a shower of crumbled feta, an ideal accompaniment to grilled meats.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
4 cups cherry tomatoes or grape tomatoes (about 3 pints), halved
Salt and black pepper
1/2 cup roughly chopped green or black olives
2 garlic cloves, pounded to a paste or grated
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1/2 cup roughly chopped parsley
8 ounces feta, crumbled in large chunks
5 ounces arugula or baby spinach (optional)
DIRECTIONS
1: Put tomatoes in a large bowl. Season well with salt and pepper, and toss.
2: Add olives, garlic, olive oil and vinegar, and toss well, leaving salad to marinate for 10 to 15 minutes.
3: To serve, add chopped cilantro and parsley, and transfer to a platter.
4: Garnish with feta and add greens, if using.
Sesame-Coconut Shortbreads
These delicious shortbread-like cookies feature tahini, sesame seeds and a touch of coconut. Not only are they easy to transport, but they’re also easy to make and are a pleasant not-too-sweet dessert for nibbling.
Makes about 2 dozen
INGREDIENTS
3/4 cup (185 grams) unsalted butter, melted
3/4 cup (150 grams) sugar
Scant 1/2 cup (120 grams) tahini
Scant 1/4 cup (60 grams) honey
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups (256 grams) cake flour (or use all-purpose)
1/2 cup (25 grams) unsweetened shredded coconut, preferably finely shredded
1/4 cup (38 grams) sesame seeds
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
Powdered sugar, for dusting
DIRECTIONS
1: Put butter, sugar, tahini, honey and vanilla in a medium bowl, and whisk until sugar dissolves.
2: In a separate bowl, stir together flour, coconut, sesame seeds, baking powder and salt.
3: Add dry ingredients to the wet mixture and beat with a wooden spoon until well incorporated and a soft dough is formed.
4: Divide dough into 2 pieces. Roll each piece into a log about 2 inches in diameter. Wrap in wax paper or plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm, up to overnight. (The dough also freezes well.)
5: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut the logs into 1/2-inch slices, and arrange across 2 baking sheets. Bake until very lightly browned, 10 to 13 minutes. Let cool completely, then use a small strainer to dust the cookies with a thin layer of powdered sugar before transferring to a platter or cookie tin.
Recipes by David Tanis.
