I have a very clear memory from childhood of hiking with my family through a sandy desert wash in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, the sun beating down as we trudged through the thick terrain.
It was hot and we were uncomfortable — I frequently stopping to soak my hat in water to cool my head. But that didn’t deter us from the hike’s (alleged) destination: a palm oasis with the promise of a refreshing spring.
So we hiked and hiked, and continued to hike for what felt like days. We could see a cropping of palm trees in the distance — we were surely almost there! — but the more we walked, the farther away the trees seemed to be.
We had enough water, but eventually we turned around and headed back to camp, sweating and perhaps wondering if we should have brought a map. Today, we laugh about that day and wonder if the trees were only a mirage.
I thought about that hike last week as I ventured along the Palm Canyon Trail in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, a roughly 3-mile, mostly easy loop that leads to California fan palm trees and an accompanying stream, a popular watering spot for peninsular bighorn sheep and a favorite among hikers.
This time, all these years later and in a different area of the state park, I actually made it to the palm trees: not a mirage, but a lively, breezy haven in the warm desert. On my return hike, I encountered a herd of about 10 bighorn sheep, including one lounging on a boulder just a few yards off the trail. I’ve never seen a bighorn sheep, and the discovery had me practically skipping down the canyon.
Keep in mind that an extreme heat warning is in effect in the state park from April through October, and hiking in the desert in the late spring and summer can be dangerous. There is very little to no shade, and hikers should bring at least a gallon of water on the trail.
The trailhead is marked with a sign and begins at the west end of the Borrego Palm Canyon Campground, located off Palm Canyon Drive in Borrego Springs. There is a $10 day use fee per vehicle and ample parking.
Hikers will head west along the trail as it meanders through Palm Canyon. It’s easy to follow and marked with frequent directional arrows, with a few rocky sections to navigate. At the 1-mile mark, you’ll come to an intersection, but continue walking northwest on the trail that leads about 0.4 miles more to the palms.
Enjoy the shade of the trees and — if you’re lucky — the flowing water, since the output levels can fluctuate. I rested on a cool rock and spotted a frog before it hopped into a small waterfall.
Once you’re ready to leave the oasis, retrace your steps. At the intersection from earlier, hikers can follow the main trail they walked in on, or opt like I did for the alternate trail, which heads south and then east for about a mile before connecting with the parking lot.
Both trails are mostly easy to follow, but it may be helpful to use a map or app like AllTrails to stay on course.
